Dominate with Farmville Cheats

What we are going to do is leverage your existing content and turn it into articles which you can upload to the top article directories for other website publishers to use on their websites. But not just any old articles…we are going to turn what you’ve written into ‘super articles’.

Here’s how…

You probably already know that writing and submitting articles to article directories is a good strategy for attracting website visitors. Nothing new there. You also know that articles can often be picked up by hundreds or thousands of other websites and used as content all over the web. You can become a ‘Guru’ in your niche market in a very short period of time using this strategy.

So if articles are a great way of generating visitors, and you’ve already written lots of great content for your website, why not put the two together and leverage your work a little? Why just use your content once when you can spread it around and put it to use hundreds of times? Your article will be seen by many more readers who are potential buyers of your products or services.

Plus you’ll have an incoming link from each article on other people’s websites to yours, increasing your link popularity and ultimately Google PageRank, both of which are very important if you are trying to get high search engine rankings (which you want of course).

Writing and submitting articles is one of the highest leverage activities you will invest your time in as you build your website. It will give you a massive edge over other sites in your niche if you do it correctly.

So, here are the steps…

Step 1. Take an existing article or story you’ve written for your website and change it into a ‘How To’ type of article. For example, your German shepherd dog website’s article on potty training new puppies would become ‘Three Simple Steps To Potty Training Your New Puppy.’

You change your article for two reasons.

One, because you don’t want what’s called duplicate content exactly the same as yours on thousands of other websites. It’s OK if other webmasters all take your article and have duplicate content on their websites, you just don’t want exactly the same article on yours…

The other reason is that ‘How To’ articles are the most popular with readers. People are looking for specific steps they can take now to get a result. Give them clear instructions that provide the information they are looking for and they will read your articles and recommend them to their friends as well.

Step 2. Put a ‘Resource Box’ at the bottom of each article directing people to a page where you can capture their name and email address and tell them why they should visit and subscribe to receive something of value.

Most people get this part totally wrong. DO NOT simply direct people to your website in your article’s resource box and hope they will do what you want them to do. Only give them one choice – subscribe to a list to grab a free report, mini course or something else of value, or not.

By sending people to a page where they have a choice of either subscribing or not subscribing such as your home page, most will do nothing and you’ve wasted a valuable article. Create an irresistible offer that your readers will be compelled to request and subscribe to get, and your articles will bring in lots of very targeted visitors for years to come.

And the most important thing is that these visitors will get to know and trust you over time as you build a relationship with them through the email messages you send them once they subscribe to receive your report or mini course. In this way, you are truly leveraging your content and over time you will create multiple streams of targeted visitors to your website.

Rockford Tapscott

http://www.articlesbase.com/home-business-articles/mastering-content-leverage-how-to-supercharge-your-websites-effectiveness-64390.html

could anyone tell me the best way to do it?

I agree- don’t use potty pads unless you want a big hound peeing in your house forever 8-{

You need to stop your puppy from making the mistakes- not punish her after she has already made the mistake. I recommend "umbilical cord training"- basically, you attach the dog to you all the time with a leash:

http://www.thehousebreakingbible.com/training/umbilical-cord-training.htm

Most dogs won’t pee when they are so close to you, but if she does, tell her "no!" and use the leash to run her out the door. Take her out every hour or so to give her a chance to pee in the right place and praise her like crazy if she does

When she is not directly supervised, keep her in a crate where she will not potty or out in the yard where she is allowed to potty. Don’t let her make any mistakes!!!

After a day or two you should start to notice when she needs to go. If you start taking her out when she whines or paces or stares at you, she will start to learn how to tell you she needs to go. Once she gets good at this, she won’t be likely to make any mistakes, as she’ll be able to tell you to take her out.

Good Luck!

What happens when your dog loses the ability to control his bowel movements? What do you do when you realize that your well-trained life companion who has been potty trained for years all of a sudden starts urinating and defecating all over the house?

Well instead of punishing your dog and making matters worse, you may want to look into the fact that he may have a condition known as incontinence.

Incontinence is the inability to control urination and/or defecation. The same term is also used to describe the reduced control that is sometimes apparent in geriatric animals.

The condition can be very upsetting to owners, as it warrants constant vigil to avoid cleanups. Many owners believe that the affected animal is either uncomfortable or in poor health. Some owners are repulsed and unable to cope with this type of problem.

Incontinent dogs should be carefully examined by a veterinarian to determine whether the problem is due to old age (lack of sphincter control) or a condition that can be treated. Urinary incontinence could be caused by conditions of the bladder and urethra.

A relatively common cause in older spayed female dogs is reduced estrogen levels. This type of condition may respond well to hormone treatments.

Fecal incontinence has been associated with damaged anal sphincter muscles, which perhaps can be surgically repaired, or injuries to the lumbar or pelvic area, with results from a nerve damage.

Nerve disorders usually are difficult to treat. Where loose stools associated with improper feeding are a part of the problem, dietary adjustments may be helpful.

The saddest situation is one in which the dog owner, unaware of possible corrective measures, believes that incontinence cannot be cured and automatically warrants euthanasia.

Even if the problem cannot be handled medically, some minor adjustments may make the incontinent dog easier to live with, and thus prevent the injustice of sending a faithful companion to his death.

Take this example: An 11 year old, spayed, female dog is healthy in all other respects, but had had urinary and fecal incontinence for about 1 1/2 months.

There are several things that a veterinarian might do for the dog. With a diet change and medical treatment, the incontinence could be reduced to the point where the diapers and bloomers were working acceptably. Other affected dogs have responded well to paper training or installation of a pet door.

If you follow your vets orders the problem can be manageable.

Daniel Millions
http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/incontinence-what-it-means-to-your-pet-132829.html

Housebreaking a puppy should be based on prevention rather than punishment. A key to housebreaking a puppy or dog for that matter is close supervision. In just a matter of seconds your puppy can have an accident, so to help prevent that from occurring you should watch for signs that your puppy needs to potty. If your puppy starts to run in circles, sniffing at the door or suddenly runs out of site, that he/she is trying to let you know it’s potty time.

Another way that helps in housebreaking a puppy is keeping his diet consistent. High quality premium brand dry puppy food is a better choice that canned food or table scrapes. If you need to change his food for any reason try and do it gradually over a period of 5-8 days, gradually increasing the amount of new food each day. Remember, the more changes you make the more difficult housebreaking your puppy will be.

During the day when your puppy can not be supervise I highly recommend your puppy or young dog be kept in a crate or a small confined area. If done properly crate training is a safe and very effective way of housebreaking a puppy. In order for the crate to be used in housebreaking a puppy it should not be used for long periods of time or for punishment.

This my sound like common sense but puppies need to urinate soon after they eat, drink water or sleep, those having troubles housebreaking a puppy tend not to think about that. Another thing that is over looked is the fact that most puppies over 13 weeks of age will need to go 8 or 10 times a day.

So, keep a record of your puppies potty times for a few days. The secret to housebreaking a puppy is figuring out the amount of time between potty times and subtracting about 15 – 20 minutes. For housebreaking a puppy we call the “Safety Zone”. By doing this we can figure out how long our little puppy can be trusted to hold out after his last potty break.

Another trick to housebreaking a puppy is not setting him up to fail, what I mean by this not allowing him access to areas carpeting, rugs, ect. Puppies like certain areas to do their business, when you find one (or he does), make a note of it and try and keep him away from it.

When your little angel does have an accident despite his best intentions use a neutralizer with an enzyme based deodorizer to clean the area…there are a number of pet safe products available and should be added to your housebreaking kit.

One area that is overlooked is submissive peeing, it is completely involuntary and scolding your puppy for it will do more harm than good and should be avoided at all cost.

The last thing you need to do when housebreaking a puppy is to use lots of praise. Find a trigger word both you and your puppy can live with and use that in combination with praise and rewards as soon as your puppy potties ( I use “go potty”). This positive reinforcement lets your puppy know that you’re pleased with him and he’ll try even harder to please you.

Those are just a few of the tips for housebreaking a puppy. I hope this helps both you and your puppy.

Jim Banks
http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/housebreaking-a-puppy-89234.html

Housebreaking a puppy should be based on prevention rather than punishment. A key to housebreaking a puppy or dog for that matter is close supervision. In just a matter of seconds your puppy can have an accident, so to help prevent that from occurring you should watch for signs that your puppy needs to potty. If your puppy starts to run in circles, sniffing at the door or suddenly runs out of site, that he/she is trying to let you know it’s potty time.

Another way that helps in housebreaking a puppy is keeping his diet consistent. High quality premium brand dry puppy food is a better choice that canned food or table scrapes. If you need to change his food for any reason try and do it gradually over a period of 5-8 days, gradually increasing the amount of new food each day. Remember, the more changes you make the more difficult housebreaking your puppy will be.

During the day when your puppy can not be supervise I highly recommend your puppy or young dog be kept in a crate or a small confined area. If done properly crate training is a safe and very effective way of housebreaking a puppy. In order for the crate to be used in housebreaking a puppy it should not be used for long periods of time or for punishment.

This my sound like common sense but puppies need to urinate soon after they eat, drink water or sleep, those having troubles housebreaking a puppy tend not to think about that. Another thing that is over looked is the fact that most puppies over 13 weeks of age will need to go 8 or 10 times a day.

So, keep a record of your puppies potty times for a few days. The secret to housebreaking a puppy is figuring out the amount of time between potty times and subtracting about 15 – 20 minutes. For housebreaking a puppy we call the “Safety Zone”. By doing this we can figure out how long our little puppy can be trusted to hold out after his last potty break.

Another trick to housebreaking a puppy is not setting him up to fail, what I mean by this not allowing him access to areas carpeting, rugs, ect. Puppies like certain areas to do their business, when you find one (or he does), make a note of it and try and keep him away from it.

When your little angel does have an accident despite his best intentions use a neutralizer with an enzyme based deodorizer to clean the area…there are a number of pet safe products available and should be added to your housebreaking kit.

One area that is overlooked is submissive peeing, it is completely involuntary and scolding your puppy for it will do more harm than good and should be avoided at all cost.

The last thing you need to do when housebreaking a puppy is to use lots of praise. Find a trigger word both you and your puppy can live with and use that in combination with praise and rewards as soon as your puppy potties ( I use “go potty”). This positive reinforcement lets your puppy know that you’re pleased with him and he’ll try even harder to please you.

Those are just a few of the tips for housebreaking a puppy. I hope this helps both you and your puppy.

Jim Banks
http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/housebreaking-a-puppy-89234.html

Bhabani wrote to me with her question about her dog and
submissive urination:

She wrote: “I have a mixed-breed puppy (German shepherd/border
collie mix) which is 4 months old. It’s very friendly with
people but when it approaches people, it urinates all-over. The
same happens when I come home in the evening. It becomes very
excited and urinates on the carpet. Is that a submissive
behavior? How can I solve this problem?

-Bhabani

Dear Bhabani,

Just for peace of mind, have him checked by your veterinarian to
make sure the problem is strictly behavioral and isn’t medically
related. Once you have the results from the tests, you can start
from there.

If your dog is otherwise house-trained, it is more likely a
submissive behavior. You can help reduce this behavior by
increasing your dog’s confidence level.

Take the dog out more and socialize, socialize, socialize with
other humans.

Agility training is also a great start.

Don’t create as much excitement around the dog when he’s known
to exhibit the behavior. When you come home, ignore him until
he’s calm enough to greet. Is he kept in a crate while you’re
gone? This can help you by allowing you to come home and
immediately take the dog outside to potty. By staying in the
crate, he will be more at loathe to potty in it because dogs
have an inhibition to using the same area as a toilet and a den.

The same goes with guests. If a guest comes over, they should
ignore the dog and not fuss until he calms down. Do not correct
him for urinating. Correcting submissive urination will only
make the behavior worse

Adam Katz
http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/heres-what-to-do-if-your-dog-displays-submissive-urination-2185.html

About six years ago we brought home an adorable, sleepy, five-week old puppy. We knew it was too early for her to leave her mother, but the dam had stopped feeding the pups and walked away. She was done with them, so the humans took over.

At that tender age, Kaylee was sleepy, darling and sweet. She’s still darling and sweet, but rarely do her batteries run down. We describe her as having two speeds – full and off. And off isn’t often.

If your dog is like Kaylee, whether because it’s an active, fun-loving puppy, or because it’s “not quite wired right” like ours, you need strategies for coping. You need a peaceful household where everyone knows the rules and plays fair.

We get dogs for many reasons; primary among those reasons are companionship and fun. If your dog is constantly harassing you to “play,” the probability is that neither of you are having much fun. It may even have gotten to the point that you don’t look forward to going home and spending time with your dog.

You can change the situation, if you’ll commit just a few minutes a day and your patience. Things won’t change overnight, but over the course of just a few days your life will improve. In a few weeks, you may have the canine companion you hoped for.

The first step is to realize that you are the boss in your household. Not your dog. You decide when to play. And you decide how long playtime will be. It’s important to schedule a daily play time. It doesn’t have to be long – ten minutes will do. As long as during that time, all you do is play with your dog. That’s it. Just play.

As a first step: remove your dog’s favorite toy. The one he constantly obsesses about and brings everywhere he goes. Put it up on a shelf. Kaylee’s obsession is her little latex soccer ball. Other toys are fine, she’ll carry them around, but her special toy is that particular ball. (To avoid complete meltdown, we do have a couple spares on hand. No toy lasts forever.)

Next: get a brand new kitchen timer, with a ring or a beep that doesn’t sound like any other timer in the house. This is your dog’s timer – he’ll recognize it very quickly.

To start playtime, ask your dog if she wants to play, get her timer, set it for however many minutes you choose, then get her special toy and start playtime. Let her recognize the ritual. Dogs love routine and quickly adjust to new ones.

For as long as the timer’s running – have fun with your dog. Tug, toss, wrestle – play intensely and focus on your dog. When the timer’s bell goes off – stop immediately. Tell your dog “that’s it!” show him the timer and turn it off. Then say “let’s go get a drink” and walk over to his water bowl. When he drops his toy, replace it on the shelf. It doesn’t come down until the next session.

If you need to “trade” a treat for the toy – do so. You’re not rigorously training your dog to perform a task – you’re teaching him the house rules so that everyone can relax and enjoy your time together.

We always take Kaylee out for a quick “potty break” after a play session – it’s another part of our routine. She knows what to expect. When she comes back in the house, she finds a place to lie down. Sometimes she finds a chewie toy, sometimes she just lies down. She doesn’t ever really relax, but she’s now a dog we can live with.

Dogs love ritual and routine. When you got your dog, chances are you pictured yourself at home, dog by your feet, relaxing and enjoying life. You can still make that happen, every evening, if you establish that routine for your dog.

Hope Saidel
http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/dealing-with-your-hyperactive-dog-129289.html

Just recently, he has started a problem that we consider very serious. Instead of going to the door so that we will let him out, he has decided that he can just pee on our couch or in the bed.

He is crate trained, so leaving him in his crate close to all the time isn’t a problem, but he’s been so good for so long that we can’t understand the relapse (and WHY he only desires to pee on the couch and in our bed).

He doesn’t sleep with us except for "special occassions" (usually when my husband is out of town), but why not just pee on the floor? We have a high bed, so it’s a big jump to make JUST to pee there. He’s done it several times in the past month or so, and the same goes for the couch as well.

Does anyone have any tips for our semi-relapsed pup?

Peeing on your bed etc is a dominance thing….. yeah even for little dogs….